Demopolis to Eutaw, Alabama

Miles Today: 60.3 / Total Trip Miles: 293.9

Today’s photos are here.

This morning, with “only” 59 miles to do, the group mood was relaxed: people dawdled in the motel breakfast room and then stood outside in the parking lot, chatting. Our destination, Eutaw, Alabama, didn’t seem to have much in the way of tourist attractions although, having escaped the burning that went on throughout the South during the Civil War, it does boast 24 antebellum homes.

Frankie & Sue & I pulled out of the Demopolis motel at the same time and rode most of the way together - each at her own speed, not in a tight group. In no rush to get to where we were going, we stopped frequently to take photos.

The route was pretty flat, with a touch of a headwind at times but nothing too bruising. Although thunderstorms had been forecast, the day stayed dry but it was overcast and middling humid - not my favorite riding conditions. I hate humidity and partly because of it, partly because of the lack of sunshine, and partly because of the stop-and-go riding we were doing, I wasn’t feeling “one with the bike”: each time we’d start up again, it’d take me a while to get back into a comfortable pedaling rhythm. But after the sag stop at 40 miles I did ride straight through to the Eutaw city limits, about 13 miles, and got into that calm, almost hypnotic state that cycling takes me to so magically.

Coming into Eutaw, I stopped to check out a bamboo craft shop and chatted with Wilt, the craftsman, who’d developed an interest in bamboo while serving in Vietnam. He was impressed & amazed, hearing about us old ladies on the UGRR. Very sweetly, he presented me with a handmade bamboo mixing spoon, which I, in turn, have donated to WT’s traveling galley.

Hoping to find some of the antebellum houses, I detoured down a side street and got lucky: four pre-Civil War homes, past-their-prime, but with a definite aura of southern gentility.

Following the route through town, I saw one of our riders sitting on the steps of the old Probate House, where the county kept its records. She said it was definitely worth a look inside - and indeed it was!

Across the street were a bunch of bikes parked against a wall: the ladies had found a barbecue restaurant and were inside having lunch. I joined them but, probably because of the humidity, didn’t feel like eating. However, I did sample the corn hush puppies - creamed sweet corn, deep fried - and they were delicious. Artery clogging, but delicious.

Interesting thing happened at lunch. Georgia, the day’s sag driver, came in to tell us there was heavy logging traffic on the road from town to our motel and the road didn’t have a shoulder. Everyone was getting very nervous about doing the last miles & I guess I caught their nervousness. Usually I don’t mind riding in traffic - I just pull over and let trucks pass if there isn’t enough room for both of us. But I found myself putting my bike on top of the sag vehicle & riding to the hotel. From what I could see, the road wasn’t so bad. Live and learn and don’t get caught up in other people’s shtick. When we got to the hotel I went out for a ten mile ride, to make up the miles.

Our hotel is one WT hasn’t used before and without a doubt won’t use again. I’ll spare you the details. No internet service (by no means the worst thing about it), which is why this won’t be posted until our next destination.

Tomorrow is a 70 mile ride to Columbus, Mississippi, our second State. Weather forecast is for rain. Not looking forward to that but que sera, sera.

Thanks for reading my blog!